Ew, What's That Smell: How Can Stinky Cheese Taste So Good?

me it smells like feet, to others it reeks of dirtyheritage and production methods. Both the Swiss
socks. We are not talking about the locker roomand French versions are produced from
but the aroma of some of the world’scow’s milk and washed with a salt-water
most delectable foods – gourmet cheese.brine. Gruyere can be identified by having small
One step into a cheese shop and it’s easyholes and is characteristically sweet, nutty and
to be overwhelmed with the aroma. To someslightly salty. As it ages, the flavor becomes more
it’s offensive and to others it’sfull-bodied and the texture hardens with crystalline
heavenly. With most foods, the sense of smell iscrunchies. This is one of the few washed-rind
directly related to the taste but this is not alwayscheeses with a mild scent.
the case with cheese. If the odor wasn’tAs we all know, the French love their gourmet
enough to keep you from sampling these culinarycheese. No other country produces so many
delights then perhaps the production process will.types of cheese. There is one cheese so
Certainly adding to the gross-out factor is the useodiferous it was once banned from Le Metro (the
of molds and bacteria in the cheese productionParisian subway system) – Epoisses de
process to yield a desired rind color, flavor profileBourgogne. But don’t let this stop you
and scent. For the adventurous foodie, there arefrom enjoying one of the most incredible
many renowned gourmet cheeses considered towashed-rind cheeses. With its edible rind the color
have an unsavory bouquet that are definitelyof worn rust, Epoisses (as it’s commonly
worth a taste.known) has a gooey, creamy center and a
Most gourmet cheeses known to be odiferousdistinct, pronounced flavor. Made from
have something in common. They fall into aunpasteurized cow’s milk, it is washed
category known as washed-rind cheeses. Duringwith the local brandy. Produced in the French town
the aging process, these cheeses are washedof Cote-d’Or, Epoisses also enjoys AOC
with a brine typically of salt water, brandy, beerstatus. Look for Epoisses in a small round wooden
or other spirits. Sounds perfectly harmless, right?box at your local cheese shop.
Turns out this washing method allows the cheeseAn equally sumptuous washed-rind gourmet
to become hospitable to a beneficial bacteriumcheese worthy of your attention is Taleggio. This
responsible for the brightly hued rinds, robustsquare-shaped cheese from the Lombardy region
flavor and pungent odor. A few times per week,of Italy has been made in the same manner for
the cheeses are bathed in these liquids until theycenturies and therefore is assigned DOP status
are perfectly aged.(Denomination of Protected Origin –
While this may seem like these gourmet cheesesItaly’s version of AOC). Made from
would be an acquired taste, chances are you maycow’s milk and doused with a salt-water
have already savored a few. Gruyere is a popularbath, Taleggio has an edible, rose colored rind.
washed-rind cheese commonly enjoyed as a tableWhen perfectly ripe, it is a moist, semi-soft
cheese, used in fondues and is traditionally meltedcheese with a buttery (some say meaty) taste.
atop French onion soup. There are two types ofAnd let’s not forget the unforgettable
Gruyere – Swiss and Frenchodor.
(Gruyere-type cheeses are known as Comte andWith one taste of these epicurean treasures,
Beaufort). Only Gruyere produced in Gruyere,it’s easy to forget the strong smell.
Switzerland has the Appellation d’OrigineSimply grab a bottle of wine and a loaf of crusty
Controlee (AOC) and can only be labeled and soldbread. But to be considerate, just make sure you
as Gruyere. The AOC designation is essentially aare not on Le Metro.
culinary trademark protecting the recipe, region,