Hello from Mexico City

->people were already waiting to pick up their loved
After a few very hectic days before myones. Vanessa, my co-worker and local Mexican
departure I got up at 4:30 am yesterday and myexpert, was nowhere to be seen. I waited about
husband drove me to the airport. Since my flight15 minutes, exchanged some Canadian dollars into
was with Delta Airlines and had a stopover inPesos, and just a little later I saw her walking
Atlanta, I had to go through US immigration, astowards me. There was a second exit where
always an interesting experience. The wholeshe, her dad and her mom-in-law had already
procedure took me about 45 minutes, but finally Ibeen waiting for me. Vanessa has already been in
was through. Then it was off onto the bus to gettown since last Saturday to visit her family and it
to the departure terminal. Our flight waswas great to meet her father and mother-in-law.
scheduled to depart at 8:20 and sure enough, atAfter a brief walk through a large airport hall, her
about 7:20 there was an announcement that themom-in-law departed and the 3 of us started our
"rudder control switch" was loose and thatexplorations of Mexico City. We drove through
maintenance would have to be called in. Thethe southern part of the city that is relatively
ground personnel indicated that they were stillmodern and was built around the 1950s. Cars are
trying to get us off the ground in the same plane,also up-to-date models with surprisingly many
but it could take a while.European cars such as Renaults, Seats and Alfa
I was starting to get a little concerned since IRomeos. Our first stop was at a local market
would have less than an hour in Atlanta before(called a "tianguis") where market day is held once
my connection flight would leave for Mexico City.a week by merchants who move around from
Well, the maintenance crew came in and withtown to town. Fruits, vegetables, meat, clothing,
about a 40 minute delay we got off the ground inarts and crafts were on sale in portable stalls and
Toronto after being reassured that we should stillwe settled in for our first meal. I had a quesadilla
be able to make our connection flights and thatde flor de calabaza (quesadilla with cheese and
time would be made up in the air.pumpkin flower - just scrumptious).
Approaching Atlanta I noticed that this city mustOn our walk around, Vanessa started explaining
obviously be undergoing a lot of growth: newthe various vegetables and fruits, many of which
subdivisions are being built everywhere in theI had never seen. For dessert we had a "nieve"
forested areas, many of them quite large with awhich is kind of similar to gelato (not
lot of space between neighbouring homes. The soilcream-based) and very delicious. I had 3 flavours
in Atlanta is orange-red, so looking at it from thein my cup: queso (cheese), mamey (a tropical
plane you see this colourful tapestry of greenfruit) and beso de angel (the "kiss of the angel"
(forest), grey (roads, buildings) and reddish huesflavour which includes strawberries and a whole
with a relatively small cluster of skyscapersbunch of other mixtures).
announcing downtown.From there we went on to drop off my luggage
I always like to look at different cities from theand pick up Vanessa's mom and then we drove
air since even a first glance gives you a reallythrough the historic area of Coyoacán, an
good idea what's going on with a place. Groundarea with tree-lined streets, museums, art
personnel were already waiting at our arrival ingalleries and cobble-stone pavement.
Atlanta and were directing us to our connectingCoyoacán is called "the place of the
flights. I had to move from terminal B to terminalcoyotes" and sure enough, one of the central
E, so I caught an underground train that connectsattractions is a fountain featuring two coyotes in
the various terminals at this airport. When I got tothe beautiful Jardín Centenario. We also
my gate I walked right into the plane as the flightvisited the charming Iglesia de Santa Caterina and
was boarding already.Vanessa pointed out all the various shrines inside
With a sigh of relief I plunked myself down in mythe church where people had left golden hearts
window seat and started to relax, sure that Iand little trinkets, all evidence of miracles caused
would be able to make it into Mexico City on timeby the Virgen de Guadelupe.
after all. As time went on, I started chatting withWe walked through the entire Coyoacán
the young lady beside me, who lives in MinnesotaArea and right next to the church we saw local
and was flying on from Mexico City toIndian women selling little dolls, we saw an organ
Mérida on the Yucatan Peninsula. She saidplayer, many different stalls were selling Mexican
that she was visiting friends who had retired earlydelicacies and sweets. Young people were sitting
in Mérida and are having a great time.down chatting, couples were flirting, children were
They lost their jobs with the local Minnesota stateplaying.
government in their late to mid-fifties and startedVanessa and I walked through a few local
researching the possibility of retiring outside of themarkets, some of them selling fruits, vegetables
US and finally settled on Mérida whereand meat, others selling handicrafts, arts and
they are apparently really enjoying themselves.paintings. Altogether this was an extremely lively
They have learned Spanish and are very welland colourful scene. I ended up buying a few small
integrated in the local expatriate community ashand-painted brightly coloured pictures in yellow,
well as with Mexican locals. My conversationpurple and green frames that I found very
partner promised to link me up with her friendscharming.
so I'd be able to do an interview with them aboutThen we reconnected with Vanessa's parents and
their retirement lifestyle in Mexico.had dinner in a restaurant overlooking the main
Our approach to Mexico City was quite a contrastsquare of Coyoacán. The restaurant called
to approaching Atlanta. In Atlanta the air had beenSanborns was housed in a historic building and
clear, there were lots of forests and greenerybeautifully decorated. I had a tortilla soup and a
and houses were spaced far apart. The sky overspinach salad. Vanessa had warned me earlier that
Mexico City on the other hand was extremelysalads can be a bit dicey from a hygienic point of
hazy. As it is currently the largest city in theview, so I thought that since this was a pretty
world with a population of about 25 million, itshigh class establishment, here is my opportunity
dimensions are huge, and houses and buildings areto eat some greens without invoking the
built very close together. I saw a series of officeRevenge of Montezuma. Vanessa had some
towers in the downtown areas and many of theinteresting local delicacies: cows feet. I am not
residential areas had highrises as well.normally one for eating a lot of meat, particularly
Finally we landed, right on time, and we passedanything that comes from strange body parts,
through immigration very quickly and by the timebut I gave it a try: the meat had a gelatine-like
my passport and immigration forms wereconsistency, but was actually very tasty.
checked, my suitcase was already rolling aroundWe had a lovely conversation, and drove back to
on the baggage carousel. I don't think I've everthe apartment. By about 9:30 I was completely
seen such efficiency at any large airport - quitewiped and crashed into my bed.
surprising. I came out of the exit where a lot of