The Auvergne is a big plate of cheese!

A description of the many quality cheeses to beon hay in the summer months. It is a versatile
found in the Auvergne region of France. Fromcheese and can be used for example in
Bleu D'Auvergne to Cantal this article covers theomelettes, salads, soups, truffade (a traditional
history, manufacture and taste of the greatAuvergne dish made with sliced potatoes) and
Auvergne cheeses.cheese fondues.
If you love cheese then you will undoubtedly beThe production of St. Nectaire is limited to 70
interested, and perhaps surprised, to learn thattowns located in the volcanic Monts Dore region.
one of the major areas for quality cheeseFarm produced St. Nectaire is labelled with an oval
production in Europe can be found in thegreen sticker, and the dairy produced version by
Auvergne region of France. Yes, no less than fivea square green sticker. As with Cantal the
cheeses have been granted AOC (Appelationtraditional farm versions use un-pasteurised milk
d'Origine Controlee) status in the Auvergne, aand the commercial dairy version uses pasteurised
figure un-matched by any other region of France.milk both from the Salers breed of cow. The
The principal cheeses are: Bleu d'Auvergne, Cantal,farmhouse St. Nectaire is firmer than the mass
St. Nectaire, Fourme d'Ambert and Salers.produced version. One significant difference
Each of these five cheeses has gained PDObetween farm and factory produced St. Nectaire
(Protected Designation of Origin) accreditation,is that the farms must use milk from a single
guaranteeing products of the highest quality. PDOherd of cows whereas the dairies are not
identifies products whose character is linked to arestricted and are permitted to use milk from
particular region and each product is regularlyseveral different herds. This can have a great
analysed to ensure that they continue to meeteffect on the taste. The herds dine on the rich
the required standards. Since 1992 PDO has beenmountain flora found at heights of over 1000
recognised at a European level.metres. Good St. Nectaire will have a nutty, fruity
Bleu d'Auvergne is probably one of the great blueflavour and is best accompanied by a hearty
cheeses of the world. Milder than the moreBordeaux to complement the tangy finish.
famous Roquefort, it has been made since theFourme d'Ambert is a very mild blue cheese, less
mid 1900's in the traditional manner from cowswell known than Roquefort or Bleu d'Auvergne,
milk. The blue veins were traditionally formed bybut is nevertheless a fine all round cheese.
the addition of mould from crushed rye bread.According to legend this cheese was in production
Today, the veins are created by the addition ofat the time of the Druids and the Gauls and its
penicillin Roquefort and later pierced with wire. Themain market soon became the town of Ambert
cheese is then placed at the entrance to one ofwhose town hall is in the shape of a circle, like the
the many caves found in the area for ripening.cheese itself. Made from cows milk Fourme
Today, production is limited to six dairies and onlyd'Ambert has a musty scent, but its flavour is
one farm, which manufacture over 6,000 tonnesmild and creamy. To appreciate the lighter flavour
per year. Great to eat in salads or by itself, goodof this cheese it is best enjoyed simply with a
Bleu d'Auvergne has a firm but creamy texturecrust of bread or as dessert course accompanied
and should spread easily onto bread or crackers.by a sweet wine such as Sauternes.
Other great dishes to use Bleu d'Auvergne includeSalers completes the set of Auvergne AOC
'Blue Cheese Potatoes Au Gratin' and 'Pear andcheeses. Another product of the Cantal region, it
Blue Cheese Tart', best washed down with ais the only Auvergne cheese that is not factory
sweet wine, montbazillac or sauternes forproduced (as well as farm produced). It is made
example, to counteract the somewhat saltyusing un-pasteurised milk from (as you would
aftertaste.expect) the Salers breed during the summer
Cantal cheese is defined according to its age;pastures (15th April to 15th November). As such
Cantal jeune (young - ripened from 30 to 60cheese production must take place twice a day
days), Cantal entre-deux (medium - ripened fromas soon as the cows have been milked. It is
90 to 210 days) and Cantal vieux (mature -another ancient cheese estimated to have been
ripened for over 240 days). Younger Cantal has aproduced in this region for over 2000 years. It is
mild, buttery flavour whilst more mature versionsa firm cheese with a fruity flavour said to be at
have been likened to cheddar, although Cantal hasits best after maturing for nine months.
a softer texture. The cheese (and the region)Cheese heaven! If you would like to experience
gets its name from the highest peak in thethe great Auvergne cheeses at first hand, and
region, the 'Plomb du Cantal' at over 6,000 ft. andappreciate their diversity of form and flavour, you
has been produced for over 2000 years. Twocan embark on the cheese road - in French, the
types of Cantal are produced. Cantal Fermier, is'Route des Fromages A.O.C. d'Auvergne'. Follow
made from un-pasteurised milk and is farmthe brown 'Route des Fromages' signs to nearly
produced. Cantal Laitier is made from pasteurised40 gourmet stops to learn about and enjoy all of
milk and is the main commercial dairythe cheeses of this beautiful region.
mass-produced version. Both types use milk fromHappy tasting!
the Salers breed of cow. The cows are fed solely