Regional food of France

Copyright 2006 I have been travelling to Francethe word chowder) makes good use of the
for nearly 25 years- usually on holiday- to mostregion's fish. The cosmopolitan city of Lille is a big
of the main regions. I so enjoyed all my trips, thatproducer of charcuterie and beer. Pastries are
I decided to move lock, stock and 2 smokingquite basic with gaufres (waffles eaten with sugar
barrels to start my new life actually living in thisand fresh cream) being among the best known. In
great country. I bought a 300 year old house,Champagne, biscuits de Reims are sweet and
part of which was the original ramparts of thedelicious paper-thin macaroons.
walled town. I am in heaven- the weather is 38 CAlsace and Lorraine
as I write this article, the cicadas are screechingThey both have been under German rule more
outside, and soon I shall walk the 30 yards to thethan once in the past and this influence is evident
river and swim in mountain water at ain many of the local dishes, in which pickled
temperature of 20 C. Bliss.cabbage and pork are common. Baeckeoffe is a
Before I can frolic, let me share some stories,stew of marinated meat and vegetables and
myths and information about one of the French'schoucroute alsacienne is pickled cabbage flavoured
and also its visitors favourite pass times. Food,with juniper berries and served with sausages,
glorious food. What is perhaps less widelybacon or pork knuckle. The locals also enjoy all
recognized is that France's reputation for finekinds of savoury pies and tarts, the best-known
food is not so much based on long-held traditionsbeing tarte flambée or flammekuche which is a
but on constant change. In fact, the generalthin layer of pastry topped with cream, onion and
expectation of good eating is a relatively newbacon and cooked in a wood-fired oven. From
experience for the French. At the time the BastilleLorraine comes the most famous of all, quiche
was stormed in 1789, at least 80% of the Frenchlorraine. Originally, this dish was made without
population were subsistence farmers, with breadcheese, but most recipes now include it and also
and cereals as the basis of their diet, essentiallyadd vegetables, seafood or ham to the basic mix
unchanged since the time of the ancient Gaulsof eggs and cream. Burgundy and Bordeaux.
nearly two millennia before. In the mid-nineteenthDishes make liberal use of their famous red and
century, following the demise of the aristocracy,white wines. Burgundy provides the best beef in
food was a conspicuous symbol of social position,France and is famous for its boeuf bourguignon.
swiftly adopted by a new ruling class ofIt's also home to Dijon mustard which is used to
bourgeoisie, who recreated the sumptuous mealsenhance the flavour of many dishes. Coq au vin
of the very aristocracy they had once criticized.(chicken in red wine) is another perennial favourite,
At the same time, two-thirds of Parisians wereand in this region you'll find the biggest escargot
either starving or ill-fed, five times more likely to(snails) in France - because they're raised on
be nourished from vegetable proteins than fromgrape leaves they're also meant to be the
any meats or dairy products. The golden age oftastiest. Bordeaux is carnivore country and its
haute cuisine benefited only those at the very topmost celebrated dish is entrecôte marchand de
of the social ladder. It took a world war at thevin - rib steak cooked in a rich gravy made from
beginning of the twentieth century to halt theBordeaux wine, butter, shallots, herbs and bone
gross inequality of wealth at the table, and tomarrow. Sweet treats include cannelés
bring about a more even distribution of the(caramelised brioche-style pastries) and the
nation's produce. The advent of improvedfamous marrons glacés (candied chestnuts).
transportation, especially by train, brought culinaryLanguedoc-Roussillon, Gascony and the Basque
revolution to the regions, and slowly the spreadingCountry.
affluence could put a chicken on every peasant'sThese regions lie on the Spanish border and, using
table. Eventually, tourism fanned the flames ofan abundance of tomatoes, peppers and spicy
change in France's commercial kitchens, as chefssausage, their food shares many similarities with
were obliged to create dishes appealing to anthat of Spain. Cassoulet (a casserole with meat
ever-widening audience of British, Japanese, Middleand beans) is Languedoc's signature dish; Roussillon
Easterners, and Americans, as well as Frenchhas a similar dish called ouillade. There are strong
travellers hungering for new experiences. In someSpanish and Catalan influences in Roussillon too,
instances the reasons for change in regionalwith tapas-style dishes served in many wine bars.
products were a pragmatic reaction to a decline inGascon dishes are kept simple but hearty with
other industries (such a silk) or to the economiclots of meat, fat and salt. Garbure is a thick stew
disaster brought about by the Phylloxera pest,made with vegetables, herbs, spices and
which wiped out most of France's grape vines atpreserved meats. Poulet Basque is a chicken stew
the turn of the century.with tomatoes, onions, peppers and white wine
Today, eating is very regional. There still is aand piperade is Basque comfort cooking -
strong culture of seasonal eating, which is verypeppers, onions and tomatoes cooked with ham
well reflected on menus. Each region has its ownand eggs. The locally prepared Bayonne ham is
dishes that history shows, or has been adaptedusually eaten sliced with bread but is also the basis
to show, that certain popular dishes stem from.of jambon à la Bayonnaise (ham braised in
Here is a small list of some of the most popularMadeira
ones:Provence and the south of France.
Brittany and NormandyThe region has glorious weather to thank for its
Tarte Tartin, Moules Mariniere, and the drinkcolourful, flavoursome specialities like ratatouille
Calvados. Brittany is famous for its crepes. Theseand salade Niçoise. It is often called the garden
can be savoury or sweet. Buckwheat flour isof France because of the high quality of its herbs,
used to prepare galettes- a savoury pancakefruit and vegetables. Dishes here rely on
usually eaten with ham, cheese and an egg as itstomatoes, olive oil, garlic and plenty of fresh
fillingherbs. It's not an area famous for its meat dishes,
Champagne and the North Champagne's mainbut a winter staple is boeuf en daube - beef
contribution is obvious, but being on the Belgianstewed with red wine, onions, garlic, vegetables
border there are also rich dishes of Flemishand herbs. Perhaps its most famous dish is
influence; the region's cooler climate also lendsbouillabaisse, a hearty fish soup brimming with
itself to growing potatoes, cabbages, beets,lobster, crab, mussels or clams, served as a main
watercress, endive and leeks. Flamiche is a simplecourse and accompanied by rouille - a spicy
dish of leeks cooked with cream and eggs in amayonnaise made with olive oil, garlic, chilli and fish
pastry crust, and endive flamande is made bybroth - and warm bread.
wrapping endives in ham and serving them with aI am now hungry from sharing all this information
white sauce. Carbonnade de boeuf is anotherwith you. I shall have a small slice of quiche
classic dish, where the beef is slowly braised inlorraine, and then have my swim. Bon apetit.
onions and beer. A stew called chaudrée (hence