| June 30, 2006 | | | | tremendous thunderstorm started pelting |
| Well, as much as the walking tour | | | | the city. I decided that rather than |
| through Old Montreal nourished my senses | | | | wait out this storm on the terrace of |
| and architectural sensibilities, my | | | | the Café du Chateau, I was going to use |
| stomach was in dire need of nutrition | | | | my time to actually explore the museum |
| and I was debating whether I should | | | | that was housed in the adjoining |
| plunk myself down at one of the enticing | | | | building. |
| terrace cafés on Place Jacques Cartier. | | | | The Chateau de Ramezay is a mansion that |
| Then I literally stumbled over this | | | | was built in 1705 for Claude de Ramezay, |
| beautiful small park, Place De La | | | | Montreal's governor. Fourty years later |
| Dauversière off to the side of the main | | | | it fell into the hands of the French |
| square. In the southeast corner of this | | | | West Indies Company which made it its |
| space is a little gate that looked like | | | | headquarters. After the conquest in 1760 |
| the entrance to a garden and with my | | | | the building was occupied by the |
| perennial curiosity I had to go check it | | | | British. It is known that General |
| out. | | | | Richard Montgomery and Benjamin |
| The view opened up into a beautiful | | | | Franklin, among other personalities, |
| French style horticultural sanctuary: | | | | have visited the Château. |
| the Governor's Garden, an example of | | | | In the spring of 1893 the government |
| garden design of the New France era more | | | | owned the building, but it had no use |
| than 200 years ago. The beautiful thing | | | | for it and put it up for auction. It was |
| is that access is always free of charge | | | | saved from demolition and has been |
| and the extensive garden provides a | | | | operating as a museum since 1895. For |
| welcome relief of nature in the middle | | | | the last four years the building hosts a |
| of the stone buildings of Vieux | | | | permanent exhibition about the history |
| Montréal. | | | | of Montreal and Quebec, covering |
| Most of the plants are derived from | | | | prehistory all the way until the early |
| species cultivated in New France and the | | | | 20th century. |
| garden is subdivided into three | | | | As the thunderstorm was pelting the city |
| sections: the kitchen garden, an orchard | | | | I decided to educate myself a little |
| and a pleasure garden. Benches invite | | | | more about early life in Montreal. The |
| you to sit down and enjoy the serenity | | | | exhibits include historic paintings, |
| of this green space. At the back of the | | | | furniture, as well as everyday items |
| garden is a ramp leading up to a | | | | illustrating life over the last few |
| restaurant, the "Cafe du Chateau", with | | | | hundred years in what started out as |
| a large terrace covered by an awning | | | | Ville-Marie and came to be known as |
| that features wooden tables. I had found | | | | Montreal. The items illustrating the |
| the perfect spot for a lunch. | | | | day-to-day life of regular people |
| So I sat down and started jotting down | | | | fascinated me the most, such as ladies |
| my impressions in my travel journal and | | | | shoes, a fireman's helmet or a |
| perused the menu which features a | | | | children's winter coat, a sleigh and a |
| variety of salads, sandwiches, desserts | | | | "pennyfarthing", an early version of a |
| and refreshments. I decided on some | | | | bicycle, featuring an oversized front |
| light fare and ordered an endive salad | | | | wheel and a tiny rear wheel. A loom and |
| with little balls of goat cheese, | | | | various every-day implements further |
| covered in pistachios, pine nuts and | | | | illustrate life in the new colonies over |
| miniature croutons, followed by a | | | | the last couple of hundred years. |
| wonderful Quebec cheese plate that | | | | Until October 1, 2006 a temporary |
| featured three different types of | | | | exhibition is also housed by the Chateau |
| Quebec-made cheese, fresh grapes, cut-up | | | | de Ramezay: "Gardening in Paris during |
| green apples, and a paste made from dry | | | | the Monarchy" introduces the visitors to |
| dates and toast. | | | | the formal gardens of Paris more than |
| The meal was very savoury and the | | | | 200 years ago. An upcoming exhibition |
| contrasting tastes of the three cheeses | | | | called "Crime and Punishment' will talk |
| together with the sweet tastes of the | | | | about justice in the new colonies. |
| fruit and the date paste presented an | | | | I had found the perfect way to deal with |
| interesting variety of flavours to my | | | | the thunderstorm: brush up on Montreal's |
| palate. I was enjoying my meal and | | | | history at the Chateau de Ramezay. Now |
| noticed that from my table I could even | | | | it was time to head back to rest up for |
| see the cupola of the Bonsecours Market | | | | my evening explorations of the St. Denis |
| peaking out between the old buildings. | | | | neighbourhood and a tasty Mexican dinner |
| Unfortunately my serenity was cut short | | | | at La Iguana. |
| as the heavens opened up and a | | | | |