How is cheese made

Curdlingmoisture away. The curd is also mixed (or milled)
The only strictly required step in making any sortfor a long period of time, taking the sharp edges
of cheese is separating the milk into solid curdsoff the cut curd pieces and influencing the final
and liquid whey. Usually this is done by acidifyingproduct's texture.
the milk and adding rennet. The acidification isWashing: (Edam, Gouda, Colby) The curd is
accomplished directly by the addition of an acidwashed in warm water, lowering its acidity and
like vinegar in a few cases (paneer, queso fresco),making for a milder-tasting cheese.
but usually starter bacteria are employed instead.Most cheeses achieve their final shape when the
These starter bacteria convert milk sugars intocurds are pressed into a mold or form. The
lactic acid. The same bacteria (and the enzymesharder the cheese, the more pressure is applied.
they produce) also play a large role in theThe pressure drives out moisture —
eventual flavor of aged cheeses. Most cheesesthe molds are designed to allow water to escape
are made with starter bacteria from the— and unifies the curds into a single
Lactococci, Lactobacilli, or Streptococci families.solid body.
Swiss starter cultures also include PropionibacterAging
shermani, which produces carbon dioxide gasA newborn cheese is usually salty yet bland in
bubbles during aging, giving Swiss cheese orflavor and, for harder varieties, rubbery in
Emmental its holes.texture. These qualities are sometimes
Some fresh cheeses are curdled only by acidity,enjoyed—cheese curds are eaten on
but most cheeses also use rennet. Rennet setstheir own—but usually cheeses are left
the cheese into a strong and rubbery gelto rest under carefully controlled conditions. This
compared to the fragile curds produced by acidicaging period (also called ripening, or, from the
coagulation alone. It also allows curdling at a lowerFrench, affinage) can last from a few days to
acidity—important becauseseveral years. As a cheese ages, microbes and
flavor-making bacteria are inhibited in high-acidityenzymes transform its texture and intensify its
environments. In general, softer, smaller, fresherflavor. This transformation is largely a result of
cheeses are curdled with a greater proportion ofthe breakdown of casein proteins and milkfat into
acid to rennet than harder, larger, longer-ageda complex mix of amino acids, amines, and fatty
varieties.acids.
Curd processingSome cheeses have additional bacteria or molds
At this point, the cheese has set into a veryintentionally introduced to them before or during
moist gel. Some soft cheeses are now essentiallyaging. In traditional cheesemaking, these microbes
complete: they are drained, salted, and packaged.might be already present in the air of the aging
For most of the rest, the curd is cut into smallroom; they are simply allowed to settle and grow
cubes. This allows water to drain from theon the stored cheeses. More often today,
individual pieces of curd.prepared cultures are used, giving more consistent
Some hard cheeses are then heated toresults and putting fewer constraints on the
temperatures in the range ofenvironment where the cheese ages.
35°C–55°CFor the blue cheeses (Roquefort, Stilton,
(100°F–130°F). This forcesGorgonzola), Penicillium mold is introduced to the
more whey from the cut curd. It also changescurd before molding. During aging, the blue molds
the taste of the finished cheese, affecting both(P. roqueforti or P. glaucum ) grow in the small
the bacterial culture and the milk chemistry.fissures in the cheese, imparting a sharp flavor
Cheeses that are heated to the higherand aroma. The same molds are also grown on
temperatures are usually made with thermophilicthe surface of some aged goat cheeses. The
starter bacteria which survive thissoft cheeses Brie and Camembert, among others,
step—either lactobacilli or streptococci.get a surface growth of other Penicillium species,
Salt has a number of roles in cheese besideswhite-colored P. candidum or P. camemberti. The
adding a salty flavor. It preserves cheese fromsurface mold contributes to the interior texture
spoiling, draws moisture from the curd, and firmsand flavor of these small cheeses.
up a cheese’s texture in an interactionSome cheeses are periodically washed in a
with its proteins. Some cheeses are salted fromsaltwater brine during their ripening. Not only does
the outside with dry salt or brine washes. Mostthe brine carry flavors into the cheese (it might
cheeses have the salt mixed directly into thebe seasoned with spices or wine), but the salty
curds.environment may nurture the growth of the
A number of other techniques can be employedBrevibacterium linens bacteria, which can impart a
to influence the cheese's final texture and flavor.very pronounced odor (Limburger) and interesting
Some examples:flavor. The same bacteria can also have some
Stretching: (Mozzarella, Provolone) The curd isimpact on cheeses that are simply ripened in
stretched and kneaded in hot water, developing ahumid conditions, like Camembert. Large
stringy, fibrous body.populations of these "smear bacteria" show up as
Cheddaring: (Cheddar, other English cheeses) Thea sticky orange-red layer on some brine-washed
cut curd is repeatedly piled up, pushing morecheeses.